Day 7 - Sunday, Feb. 29th

Zhen was up at 12:30 a.m. for a bottle as usual, but we all went right back to sleep. She woke up at 4:30, so Andy put her back down to sleep beside him. We all woke at 6:45 a.m. and headed down for breakfast. There were too many people, not enough tables, and the staff was harried. There was a back room where they tried to put all the baby families, but it was full. Instead of waiting to be seated, we just pulled up some chairs to a table with others of our group. The buffet table was crowded and food ran out. We must come down earlier. We chatted with some of the parents from the other adoption groups. Cherry's husband and son joined us for a while (she lives in a Beijing suburb). Also joining us was Andrea's mother Marnie, who had been in China for several weeks. Andrea, Phoebe, and her mother stayed in China for several days more, after our group had left for Canada.

We eagerly jumped into the bus for the day's adventures. Our first stop was the Freshwater Pearl Factory. Here we saw a video, then a live demonstration. Very large triangular oysters were fished out of a tank, and one opened in front of us. We were asked to guess how many pearls it contained - guesses ranged from four to twelve. When opened, there were over 20! After the demonstrator quietly took out a few of the larger ones, we were each given a little pearl, fresh from the source.

At the next table, we saw pearls being sorted by size, shape, and color. Next, a small machine drilled a hole, and the pearls were strung. Quite a few necklaces were for sale, including beautiful black pearls, at prices a lot lower than the adjoining retail outlet.

The sales center was huge. It had many sales clerks in green uniforms standing around. We walked around, and as soon as we even glanced at an item the sales clerks were all over us: "You like this!", "Who is it for?", " What size she is?", "You like two?", "Let me wrap for you", "Here is another color/size/shape", "I have more here", "Buy this and have a bonus" etc. etc. Even a "no" results in other merchandise being pulled out, and other alternatives being discussed. It is likely that the clerks are paid very little, and rely on commissions.

The first sales clerk that latched onto me followed me down the counters and out into the aisles. Any glance or indication of interest resulted in a barrage of comments and inducements. I finally had to tell her (nicely) to please keep quiet, not shove stuff at me, and let me browse on my own. She respectfully kept silent, but continued to follow, 3 or 4 paces back. When I was really interested, she was very helpful, rather than pushy, and found me the right earrings for Doris. I also asked about a single black pearl necklace on a fine, simple chain, which she found, and she made another sale. I was impressed that she could adapt to my way of shopping, and so made two sales. I asked for a "discount" (often a preliminary to bargaining). She said no, but gave me a bonus to seal the sale - a nice black pearl set in a so-so ring setting. Doris will be pleased with her matching earrings, necklace, and ring.

For our second stop, we arrived at the Great Wall of China!! What a sight! As we approached in the bus, we could see the Wall snaking its way through the surrounding hills. (On map above, The Great Wall is the dotted and red lines, not the grey border with Mongolia to the north). We disembarked at the terminal, got the babies ready, and began climbing. The first section of the wall, which was relatively flat and wide, was called the "Seven Horse Span". Then the steeper climb started, and as I went quickly up the first few stairs, I had a stumble. I thought I was finished for the climb, with a slightly twisted ankle, and bleeding from a cut on my shin. I had not noticed that the stairs unexpectedly were each of a different height! I sat and recovered for a few minutes, and then I was off again, up the stairs. I'm glad I have been keeping in good shape (for the age of 64), and the climb was relatively easy.

We learned that the final wall was built in a ten year span, joining many sections that had been built previously. The wall was never intended to keep invaders out - it is too long to maintain defenses. Instead, a series of signal towers would communicate when an invading force came into China. Forces would be mobilized, and the invaders would be caught on their way out.

As we climbed, the stairway got narrower and narrower. We stopped frequently to enjoy the view and take pictures. Towers provided another stop. Andy was carrying quite a load, as was Ralph, but the three of us, plus 2 babies made it very near the top. We realized that there really wasn't any "top", but the wall continued to go up and down hills as far as we could see.   After a few more pictures, we headed down. This was just as strenuous as going up, using muscles that ordinarily do not get much play. I found a small piece of stone on the steps that had fallen from the Wall, which I kept for Zhen's journal. The view was awesome, and can only be appreciated through pictures.

We passed a wide variety of tourists on the way. Overweight ones were edging their way sideways, step by careful step. Teens gleefully ran up and down the steepest parts past the old fogies. Again most of the tourists were well dressed, but the women in high heels seemed to have some difficulty. Most of our group managed to go part way up, and all were quite awed by the experience.

On the way up, Andy had bargained at a tourist stand with a rather sour, officious lady. He finally got a good deal - a "Wall" hat and shirt for the equivalent of $5.00 CDN. On the way down I tried to bargain for the same deal, but she would have nothing to do with it, grabbing the hat that I had pulled out, and shoving it back in the line of hats (and saying "Government Shop"). As she walked away, I finally offered $4.50 for the shirt, and she offhandedly agreed, grabbing my money, and turning her back. It was then I noticed that there was some kind of uniformed government official standing by the side, who may be watching the prices. Another factor may have been that there were many more tourists around, who could have expected the same bargain if I got it for a low price.

Our next stop was at the Cloisonné factory. Upstairs was a huge restaurant, which could have been a cheap tourist-trap kind of place. However, it was one of the best meals we have had. The setting was lavish, with upholstered chairs and linen tablecloths. Food was brought to the table and placed on a lazy susan, which we rotated when hungry. Many dishes arrived, some of which we had not tried before.

We toured the main floor of the factory, and were allowed in the working area to take pictures. Such fine work, starting with the hammered copper base, then on to many tables of workers applying the copper and brass lines and borders. Enamel of many colors was applied with fine brushes and pinpoint sticks, then on to be fired in the kiln.

In the retail area we saw acres of the finished product, in all its beauty. Items of all sizes were available, from the smallest thimble, to man-sized urns. Again, sales clerks were plentiful, but did not pester us as much. I bought a set of chopsticks in a beautiful holder, and a Christmas bell. Andy bought a vase to display in his household.

The factory was in a rural area. On our way out, we saw some construction that was for the 2008 Olympics, with advertising billboards. Behind the factory was a logging operation, with logs from the nearby mountainside.

Back to our hotel. I discussed with the customer representative the attitude of the staff behind the counter. The lady at the money exchange counter had been quite disdainful, and seemed to resent being interrupted from her newspaper reading. A clerk at the main counter was very impatient with me when I asked how much per minute a phone call to Canada cost. I had some difficulty understanding her, and when I asked for a repeat, she scribbled down something on a paper - a few Chinese symbols, and some numbers that looked like 18. I said that 18 Yuan was a lot, was she sure, and she said very loudly at me at me "eight - eight - eight". The customer rep got their names, and said she would correct the situation. I hope they still have jobs. I also complimented several staff who were friendly and helpful. For example, when our electronic room key would not work (very late in the evening), a young man ("Jonny") left the desk, and quickly came up to the room with the re-keyed card to make sure it worked.

Zhen continues to be such a great gal. She is always happy, laughing, and in good spirits. She loves looking at pictures of people. T.V. is fascinating to her, and she loves watching soccer and music videos. She enjoys the entertainment report, and she laughs every time Nicole Kidman comes on screen. At meal times, she still laughs and shouts out for her food with such enthusiasm. She is now putting her hand on her bottle, and is trying to pull it towards her. Sitting up is much easier, and she is much more stable. She seems to learn new things very fast. What a happy little sweetheart.

We all are going to bed early tonight - we have to be up early (5 a.m.) to go to the clinic for Zhen's medical.

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